Manaslu - Normal Route - 1956

Manaslu, the eighth highest mountain in the world, was climbed for first time in 1956 by a Japanese expedition

First ascent of Manaslu ( 8156m )

Normal Route

Himalaya, Nepal

9 May 1956

Climbed by Toshio Imanishi, Gyalzen Norbu, Minora Higeta, Kiichiro Kato

Other members of the expedition: Yuko Maki, Katsuro Ohara, Hirokichi Tatsunuma, Sonosuke Chitani, Junjiro Muraki, Hiroyoshi Otsuka, Atsushi Tokunaga, Yuichi Matsuda, Takayoshi Yoda, Pasang Phuta, Lhakpa Tenzing, Lhakpa Tsering, Nym Phutar, Dawa Thondup, Ang Babu, Ang Dawa, Aila Namgyal, Pasang Dawa, Gundin, Nima Tensing, Pemba Snndar, Ang Namgyal, Choung, Tashi, Chotare, Wangdi, Sarke, Ang Temba

Manaslu, the eighth highest mountain in the world, was climbed for first time in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. It was the eighth 8000m peak to be climbed. Supplementary oxygen was used

The expedition was led by Yuko Maki and was made up of twelve Japanese climbers supported by 21 Sherpas, with Gyalzen Norbu as their sirdar.

They approached the mountain via the Buri Gandaki valley to its east (an approach to the mountain that had been explored by a Japanese expedition in 1953) and established a base camp near the snout of the Manaslu Glacier. From here they established camps along a complex route to a plateau on the north-eastern side of the mountain at around 6800m.The weather was fine, but on this section of the route the climbers were hampered by high winds.

"We could not afford to miss this opportunity. Strong words were exchanged by radio between Camp IV and Camp V. One would never use such language normally, but a one-way call on the telephone has to be brief and, try as they may, the talk somehow became heated." - Toshio Imanishi (Himalayan Journal Vol 20)

A final camp (Camp 6) was established at about 7800m.

From here, Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu reached the summit of Manaslu on 9 May, followed by Minora Higeta  and Kiichiro Kato on 11 May.

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Manaslu in the Ascent Book

Other climbs on Manaslu in the Himalayan Climbs mountaineering database

Mountain Facts

Manaslu, Mansiri Himal, Nepal

N 28° 33′ 0.396″ W 84° 33′ 34.4844″

Elevation: 8156m