Gasherbrum II - Southwest Ridge - 1956
Gasherbrum II was climbed for the first time in 1956, by Austrians Fritz Moravec, Joseph Larch and Hans Willenpart
First ascent of Gasherbrum II ( 8035m )
7 July 1956
Climbed by Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, Hans Willenpart
Other members of the expedition: Hans Ratay, Richard Reinagl, Heinrich Roiss, Dr. G. Weiler, Dr. E. Gattinger
Gasherbrum II was climbed for the first time in 1956, by Austrians Fritz Moravec, Joseph Larch and Hans Willenpart. No supplementary oxygen was used.
Gasherbrum II is the thirteenth highest mountain the world, and was the tenth of he world's 8000m peaks to be climbed.
The expedition established 2 camps on the glaciated southwest ridge, but progress was delayed by a spell of bad weather.
A team then climbed with porters from Camp 2 to the intended site of Camp 3 at about 7150m. The route from here to the intended site of Camp IV, at the base of the summit pyramid, was impracticable for porters unless prepared with fixed ropes. Fearing that the improved weather would not last long enough to allow this, the team decided on a lightning ascent instead.
Moravec, Larch and Willenpart therefore continued upwards, without pausing for the night at the newly-established Camp 3. They bivouaced beneath the summit pyramid at about 7500m, spending the night in sleeping bags and a bivouac sack. The following morning they continued under the southeast face of the summit pyramid to gain the east ridge, which they followed to the summit. They descended safely, stopping for the night at Camp 3 on the way down.
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Gasherbrum II in the Ascent Book
First winter ascent of Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II, Pakistan
N 35° 45′ 28.3176″ W 76° 39′ 10.5912″