Broad Peak - Iranian Route - 2013

Three Iranian climbers died after completing a new route on Broad Peak, in Pakistan's Karakoram mountains

Broad Peak ( 8051m )

First ascent of Iranian Route

Karakoram, Pakistan

16 July 2013

Climbed by Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, Mojtaba Jarabi

Other members of the expedition: Ramin Shojaei, Afshin Saadi

Iranian climbers Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarabi  died while attempting to descend Broad Peak in Pakistan's Karakoram mountains. They had reached the summit after completing a new route on the southwest face of the mountain.

Their route follows a line  attempted unsuccessfully  by an Iranian team in 2009. It appears that the 2013 team did not repeat the lower part of the 2009 route up the southwest spur of Broad Peak, but instead followed the normal route  to Camp 3, and from there embarked on the unclimbed upper section of the route attempted in 2009.

US climber Scott Powrie, who was attempting the normal route, said in an interview with Raheel Adnan for the Altitude Pakistan website:

"Since they had already done most of the new route, they went up the normal route until just below Camp 3. This is where they set up their own camp 3 and where they would break off from the normal route. They would then traverse right from their camp 3 and pick up where they had left off. They would then continue to the summit and from there they would descend via the normal route."

Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarabi set off from camp 3 while Ramin Shojaei  and Afshin Saadi remained in support. They reached the summit after 3 bivouacs, early on 16 July. From there they planned to descend the normal route, following the frontier ridge to the col at 7850m.

They appear to have strayed from the route and to have found themselves confronting increasing difficulties while their own physical condition deteriorated. Ramin Shojaei  and Afshin Saadi, in support at camp 3,  were not well enough to attempt a rescue. The last contact with the summit team was via satellite phone call on 20 July. It seems that by that time Bozorgi was alone, at the top of a steep wall that he couldn't descend.

In the meantime efforts to arrange a rescue were under way and the the col at 7850m was searched, without any trace of the missing climbers being found. An attempt was also made to spot the climbers from a helicopter, though the helicopter's  altitude ceiling put the upper section of the mountain out of its reach.

An analysis of Borzogi's last satellite phone was then made. This indicated that he was on the west face of Broad Peak, well south of the normal route.

It seems that the climbers must have descended successfully from the main summit of Broad Peak to the foresummit, and then mistakenly begun descending a subsidiary spur westwards instead of following the main ridge.

There was no more word from Borzogi after 20 July.  On 22 July the weather deteriorated, making further searches impossible. By this time there was no longer any reasonable prospect that the three climbers were alive. The search was called off on 25 July.

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Broad Peak in the Ascent Book

Other climbs on Broad Peak in the Himalayan Climbs mountaineering database

Mountain Facts

Broad Peak, Pakistan

N 35° 48′ 37.818″ W 76° 34′ 7.3164″

Elevation: 8051m