Blog archive for April 2013

Piolets d'Or - 6 winners

5 April 2013
Piolets d'Or

The Piolets d'Or jury has decided that all 6 of the teams nominated for this year's Piolets d'Or mountaineering award are winners. The jury of four climbers, headed by jury President Stephen Venables, says it would be invidious to separate the teams. Their decision was announced at a presentation this evening (Friday 5 April) in Courmayeur, at the foot of Mont Blanc.

Piolets d'Or 2013 - Winners and Quitters

9 April 2013
The Dru at sunset

2012 was a bumper year for mountaineering. The Piolets d'Or award - the mountaineering equivalent of the Booker Prize - was last week awarded jointly to six mountaineering teams for their ground-breaking climbs in the Himalaya and Karakoram. Smiles all round, you might think.

Not a bit of it. The Editors-in-Chief of Montagnes Magazine and Vertical Magazine have resigned from the Piolets d'Or Steering Committee.

Piolets d'Or 2013 - Review to be held

11 April 2013
Piolets d'Or logo

The Piolets d'Or says it will shortly be holding a meeting with French and Italian partners to "review the event and establish a basis for the continued future of the Piolets d'Or." The announcement follows the resignation of two French-based climbing magazines from the organisation in protest at the decision by this year's jury to award Piolets d'Or to all six of the shortlisted climbing teams.

Tweeting Everest

26 April 2013
Stamps printed in New Zealand dedicated to conquest of Everest, circa 2003

It's almost 60 years since the first ascent of Everest What do you on your 60th? Fifty is big, a hundred is stellar, but sixty is just fifty redux. You have to bring something new to the party. Something that didn't exist ten years earlier. Twitter followers of Everest1953 are getting tweets several times a day, as if through a wormhole in time, about the events of 60 years ago

Punch-up on Everest

28 April 2013

The Nepal-based Himalaya Times is today reporting that three foreign climbers have been "thrashed" by Sherpas while climbing between camps 2 and 3 on Everest. Two of the climbers are named as "Simboli Moro" - presumably Simone Moro - and "Wool Stick" - presumably Ueli Steck. The third climber isn't named. Nor are the Sherpas involved in the incident. Despite the quaint spelling of the climbers' names, the report is plainly not meant to be satirical.

Everest Violence - statement from Ueli Steck and Simone Moro

29 April 2013

Press Release issued by the NO2 Limits Expedition, 28 April 2013. Simone Moro has subsequently said in an interview that the expedition is abandoning its attempt on Everest.

At about 8am on 27th April 2013 Simone Moro (IT), Ueli Steck (CH), and Jonathan Griffith (UK) left Camp 2 to reach a tent at around 7200m (lower Camp 3) on the Lhotse Face of Mount Everest. A team of high altitude sherpas were 'fixing' the Lhotse face and the climbers were asked to not touch the fixed ropes they were establishing. As such the trio climbed about 50m away and to the side of the Sherpa team to avoid disturbing them in their work. It should be noted that all three climbers have extensive climbing experience all over the world and were very aware of the work being carried out by the Sherpas and the respect given to them for it.

...By the time the climbers descended back to Camp 2 some 100 Sherpas had grouped together and attacked the three climbers. They became instantly aggressive and not only punched and kicked the climbers, but threw many rocks as well.

Follow the link at the end of the article for a "sherpa point of view," provided by Garrett Madison, expedition leader for Alpine Ascents.