Uli Biaho Tower - West Face - 2013

Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera from Italy and Silvan Schüpbach from Switzerland have made the first ascent of a new route up the West Face of Uli Biaho Tower (6109m) in Pakistan.

Uli Biaho Tower ( 6109m )

First ascent of West Face

Karakoram, Pakistan

6a/6b

21 July 2013

Climbed by Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera, Silvan Schüpbach

Other members of the expedition: David Bacci, Saro Costa, Arianna Colliard

Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Schiera from Italy and Silvan Schüpbach from Switzerland have made the first ascent of a new route up the West Face of Uli Biaho Tower (6109m) in Pakistan.

They had initially initially intended to attempt a new route, in "big wall" style, between the 1979 American  East Face route and the  South Pillar climbed in 1988 by Maurizio Giordani, Roberto Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo and Kurt Walde.

On inspection, they found this part of the mountain to be lacking in cracks or any natural line. They were also discouraged to find that the approach to the route lay over an ice field that they felt would be impracticable while carrying "big wall" gear and portaledges.

They then turned their attention to the "west face" (it seems not to be quite west-facing) to the left of the South Pillar. Here they noticed a line that appeared to offer the hope of a fast ascent with a high proportion of free climbing.

Their first attempt on this line had to be abandoned due to poor weather. But a few days later they returned to the climb and were rewarded with sucecss.

15 of the route's 18 pitches are new; 3 pitches at the top of the route are shared with the South Pillar. The difficulties are mostly around 6a/6b, with an aid pitch through a waterfall. The team say that this section could be climbed free in dry conditions.

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Uli Biaho Tower in the Ascent Book

Other climbs on Uli Biaho Tower in the Himalayan Climbs mountaineering database

Mountain Facts

Uli Biaho Tower, Pakistan

N 35° 44′ 27.6324″ W 76° 7′ 15.0024″

Elevation: 6109m

Uli Biaho Tower on the map

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