Teng Kang Poche - North-East ridge - 2013

Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anastasia Petrova have made the first ascent of the northeast ridge of Teng Kang Poche in the Khumbu area of the Nepal Himalaya.

Teng Kang Poche ( 6500m )

First ascent of North-East ridge

Himalaya, Khumbu Nepal

10 October 2013

Climbed by Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok, Anastasia Petrova

Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anastasia Petrova have made the first ascent of the northeast ridge of Teng Kang Poche (Tengmoche) in the Khumbu area of the Nepal Himalaya.

The new line was called "The Battle for Love"

In a text message from Nepal, the climbers said:

"52 hrs from the end of fixed ropes to the top, plus the descent. Without rest and food. 17 days from all 19 on the wall were in extremely bad weather and 10 of them - awful snowfalls! It was the most difficult and scary route ever for us!"

Teng Kang Poche (6500m) stands above Thame village. Climbers have previously focussed on alpine-style ascents of the mountain's faces, involving difficult mixed climbing. This year's ascent is the first to take up the obvious challenge of the rocky north-east ridge.

The photo below shows the intended line of ascent. Further details of the climb, including the line actually taken, are awaited.

Marina Kopteva (from Ukraine) and Galina Chibitok (from Russia), climbing with Anna Yasinskaya (from Ukraine) made the first ascent of the route Parallelniy Mir on Great Trango in 2011.

  • Tengkangpoche
    Tengkangpoche, northeast ridge
    RussianClimb
  • Tengkangpoche
    Tengkangpoche, intended line up northeast ridge
    RussianClimb

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Mountain Facts

Teng Kang Poche, Khumbu, Nepal

N 27° 48′ 14.4216″ W 86° 35′ 47.976″

Elevation: 6500m

Teng Kang Poche on the map

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