Talung Peak - Thumba Party - 2013
Czech climbers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hrubý have established a new route on the north face of Talung Peak, near Kangchenjunga on the Nepal-Sikkim border.
Talung Peak ( 7349m )
First ascent of Thumba Party
2500m, M6+, WI6
19 May 2013
Climbed by Marek Holeček, Zdeněk Hrubý
Nominated for the Piolets d'Or 2014
Climbing alpine-style, Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hrubý have established a new route on the north face of Talung Peak, on the Nepal-Sikkim border in the Kanchenjunga Himal. Their climb was the fourth overall ascent of the mountain.
Talung Peak is remotely situated and it took the climbers nearly 16 days to reach their Base Camp at 5100m in the Yalung Valley.
The pair had hoped to attempt the north-northwest pillar of Talung, which Holecek and Tomas Rinn had attempted in 2004. Snowless conditions on the lower third of the pillar made the route impracticable, so they they turned instead to a line further to the left, on the north face of the mountain.
They reached the summit after 4 bivouacs. The route involved difficulties of M6+ and WI6, with the crux section being the upper headwall.
Poor visibility hampered their descent down the west face, but they reached their Bas Camp after a further bivouac.
They named the route Thumba Party after a local 'beer' (thumba, tumba or tungba).
© Himalaya Masala 2013. All rights reserved.
More about this ascent
Talung Peak in the Ascent Book
First ascent of Talung Peak
Talung Peak, Kangchenjunga Himal , Nepal
N 27° 39′ 17.6688″ W 88° 7′ 51.114″