Shishapangma - southwest face - 2011
Ueli Steck has made a lightning ascent of Shishapangma (8013m) in Tibet, taking just 10.5 hours from the bergschrund to summit.
Shishapangma ( 8013m ) via southwest face
17 April 2011
Climbed by Ueli Steck
Other members of the expedition: Don Bowie
Ueli Steck has made a rapid ascent of Shishapangma, taking just 10.5 hours from the bergschrund to summit. The round trip from advance base camp and back took just over 20 hours.
He followed a combination of routes up the southwest face, starting up the British route, then moving onto the Wieliki route to avoid rockfall, and finally finishing up the Spanish route.
Steck had initially intended to climb the mountain with team-mate Don Bowie, but Bowie didn't feel sufficiently acclimatised to attempt the climb.
The ascent began as an acclimatisation exercise - Steck only intended to go to 7200m. But feeling good and finding conditions "perfect," he continued to the summit. On the descent, following a different line to his route of ascent, he encountered hip-deep powder snow.
"I think climbing is more than a sport. It's about a lifestyle and I am loving this lifestyle. But for me climbing is not just about hanging around." - Ueli Steck, in an interview with Alpinist magazine.
© Himalaya Masala 2013. All rights reserved.
More about this ascent
Shishapangma in the Ascent Book
First ascent of Shishapangma
Shishapangma, Jugal Himal, Xizang (Tibet) , China
N 28° 21′ 10.9296″ W 85° 46′ 44.9292″