Peak 6080m - southwest ridge - 2013
Climbers from Scotland have made the first ascent of an un-named 6080m peak near the Darcha-Mayar valley in Himachal Pradesh.
First ascent of Peak 6080m ( 6080m )
20 June 2013
Climbed by Andy Nisbet, Susan Jensen, Robert Adams, Bob Hamilton, Steve Kennedy
Climbers from Scotland have made the first ascent of an un-named 6080m peak near the Darcha-Mayar valley in Himachal Pradesh. The mountain was dubbed "Goat Peak" by the climbers.
Their expedition explored a valley situated to the northwest of the valley taken by the track over the Shingo La from Darcha to Zanskar.
The team established a base camp in the valley at about 4500m. From there they reconnoitred the approach to their main objective, a mountain listed as Peak 47 in the 2009 Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) list of open peaks. Access to the peak proved impracticable due to an extensive moraine-covered glacier. They therefore turned their attention to the 6080m peak situated directly above their base camp.
On 14 June they established an advanced base camp at about 5300m on the peak. Heavy overnight snowfall then forced them to return to base camp. Several days of bad weather followed - apparently the fringe of the weather system that brought catastrophic floods and landslides to parts of Uttarakhand.
On 19 June the climbers moved back up to their advanced base camp.
The following day they crossed the glacier on the southwest flank of the mountain to gain the southwest ridge, which they climbed via a short rock step (grade IV). Above the step they climbed unroped up a snow ridge (mostly 30°, sections of up to 50°), culminating in a 20m section of rock slabs leading to the top. They then descending by the same route, bypassing the rock step on snow slopes to the east.
Members of the expedition subsequently made several attempts on a peak of 5930m, to the east of their base camp, but in each case had to turn back due to dangerous snow conditions.
Members of the expedition also made ascents of various points (5250m - 5450m) on the ridge to the west of their base camp.
The valley explored by the expedition was uninhabited and appears to have been visited until then by no one but shepherds. There was a shepherds' shelter at base camp, but members of the expedition saw no one apart from their own staff and porters during their stay.
The climbing team was supported by high-altitude porters Govind Singh and Mangal Singh, base camp manager and cook Naveen Chandra, cook and runner Heera Singh and liaison officer Gajendra Desmukh.
Thanks to Susan Jensen for information about this expedition
© Himalaya Masala 2013. All rights reserved.
Peak 6080m, Himachal Pradesh , India
N 32° 56′ 21.174″ W 77° 5′ 26.7684″