Ogre I - South Face - 2012

American climbers Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster establish a new route on the Ogre (Baintha Brakk), a peak in the Karakoram mountains, Pakistan

Ogre I ( 7285m )

First ascent of South Face

Karakoram, Pakistan

21 August 2012

Climbed by Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster

Other members of the expedition: Josh Wharton

Joint winner of the Piolets d'Or 2013

Hayden Kennedy, Kyle Dempster and Josh Wharton began their ascent of the south face of Ogre I (Baintha Brakk I) just after midnight on 19 August. The lower part of the route lay up 60 degree snow and ice, followed by a traverse over extremely poor rock to gain steeper snowfields and mixed ground. Josh Wharton became ill with cerebral oedema on the final bivi before the summit. Dempster and Kennedy left him in the tent during their summit bid and continued up the final 350 meters to the summit, finding the climbing "the most enjoyable on the entire route." They then returned to the tent and the three climbers descended safely.

"Maybe Hayden and I were blinded by the summit, maybe it was a dumb decision for Josh to say, 'Go.' The three of us had cast aside the mantra of 'stay together in the mountains,' and surely our decision deserves some level of scrutiny. However, in the mountains and in every moment with the people that we choose to have adventures with in the mountains, we must constantly be aware of ourselves, our surroundings, and communicate these perceptions. If Josh had said that he needed to go down, Hayden and I would have done so. If either Hayden or I had felt a strong enough conviction that leaving Josh was not a good idea or that the terrain above was too dangerous then would have gone down. If any of us had felt differently about the circumstance, then we would not have made the decision that we did. Each moment in the mountains is different, every decision unique, and this one made collectively by the three of us felt appropriate." - Kyle Dempster

Shortly before their ascent of the Ogre, Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy had made the first ascent of the east face of K7, with Urban Novak.

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Mountain Facts

Ogre I, Gilgit-Baltistan , Pakistan

N 35° 56′ 53.7828″ W 75° 45′ 11.2896″

Elevation: 7285m

Ogre I on the map

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