Makalu - French Route - 1955

Makalu was climbed for the first time in 1955, by a French expedition

First ascent of Makalu ( 8481m )

French Route

Himalaya, Nepal

15 May 1955

Climbed by Lionel Terray, Jean Couzy, Guido Magnone, Gyalzen, Jean Bouvier, Pierre Leroux, Serge Coupé, André Vialatte

Makalu was climbed for the first time in 1955, by a French expedition. All of the French climbers, plus Sherpa Gyalzen, reached the summit. Supplementary oxygen was used.

Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and was the sixth mountain of over 8000m to be climbed

The team approached the west, via the Makalu Col to the north of the mountain. From here they climbed across the north face, up a snow couloir and then up the northwest ridge.

The French climbers used supplementary oxygen day and night above about 7100m; the Sherpas used it above about 7500m.

Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy reached the summit on 15 May. Jean Franco (leader of the expedition) , Guido Magnone and Gyalzen  reached the top on 16 May, followed on 17 May by Jean Bouvier, Pierre Leroux, Serge Coupé and André Vialatte.

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Mountain Facts

Makalu, Nepal

N 27° 53′ 23.694″ W 87° 5′ 20.5872″

Elevation: 8481m

Makalu on the map

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