Lhotse - West Face - 1956

Lhotse was climbed for the first time in 1956, by Swiss climbers Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger

First ascent of Lhotse ( 8516m )

West Face

Himalaya, Nepal

18 May 1956

Climbed by Ernst Reiss, Fritz Luchsinger

Other members of the expedition: Albert Eggler, Wolfgang Diehl, Hans Grimm, Hansrudolf von Gunten, Jürg Marmet, Dölf Reist, Ernst Schmied, Eduard Leuthold, Fritz Müller

Lhotse was climbed for the first time in 1956, by Swiss climbers Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. Supplementary oxygen was used.

The 1956 Swiss expedition was led by Albert Eggler. They followed the route to Everest via the Khumbu Glaciers and the Western Cwm and up the Lhotse Face towards the South Col.

From a camp a little short of the col Reiss and Luchsinger struck up the upper part of Lhotse's West Face, following a snow couloir. Conditions in the upper part of the couloir forced onto rocks on the left, where they found considerable difficulties. The descent of the couloir took about the same time as the ascent.

In the course of the same expedition, Jürg Marmet and Ernst Schmied made the second ascent of Everest, via the South Col and southeast ridge.

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Mountain Facts

Lhotse, Nepal

N 27° 57′ 43.7364″ W 86° 56′ 1.6224″

Elevation: 8516m

Lhotse on the map

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