Kusum Kanguru - southwest face - 2013

In October 2013 Alexander Ruchkin and Slava Ivanov made the first ascent of the southwest face of Kusum Kanguru, in the Khumbu area of the Nepal Himalaya.

Kusum Kanguru ( 6367m )

First ascent of southwest face

Himalaya, Khumbu Nepal

1600m, 6a (Russian)

19 October 2013

Climbed by Alexander Ruchkin, Slava Ivanov

Alexander Ruchkin and Slava Ivanov have made the first ascent of the southwest face of Kusum Kanguru, in the Khumbu area of the Nepal Himalaya. They climbed the route alpine style in 9 days, hampered by very poor weather. At the summit they ran out of food and fuel. The descent took a further 4 days - three of them with nothing to drink -  and resulted in the pair becoming lost amongst forest and gorges. They were eventually evacuated by helicopter.

Their ascent route, which they named "Falling into the void", involved serious and poorly protected climbing with difficulties up to Russian grade 6a.

  • Kusum Kanguru SW face
    Kusum Kanguru SW face
    Wikipedia
  • Kusum Kanguru SW face
    Kusum Kanguru SW face, showing the route "Falling into the void""
    Wikipedia/RussianClimb

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Mountain Facts

Kusum Kanguru, Khumbu, Nepal

N 27° 43′ 50.8548″ W 86° 47′ 19.4676″

Elevation: 6367m

Kusum Kanguru on the map

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