K7 West - The Dreamers of golden caves - 2011

Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič, from Slovenia, have climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan.

K7 West ( 6615m )

First ascent of The Dreamers of golden caves

Karakoram, Pakistan

1600m, VI/5, M5, A2

9 September 2011

Climbed by Luka Stražar, Nejc Marčič

Other members of the expedition: Urban Novak, David Debeljak

Joint winner of the Piolets d'Or 2012

Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič, from Slovenia, have climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The route e was climbed in alpine st.yle and took 4 days. It is second route to reach the summit of K7 West, and the third ascent overall of the peak.

"We climbed the route in 4 days. The lower part was manly ice and upper part was manly rocky passes and mixed climbing. We tried to climb on the ridge as much as possible because of the presence of overhanging seracs. We started from the base at 3 a.m., which was followed by 2 hours approach over scree, followed by climbing snow and ice until the first bivy on the ridge at 7:30 p.m. The next day was technically most demanding and consisted mainly from mixed climbing. It was harder than we'd expected. On this day we only climbed 250 m and set up our bivy on the ridge. The next day we figured that continuing the planned path with our gear would not be possible in the given situation so we passed around the rocky upper part to the right of the ridge and continued under the seracs. We topped out at 9 a.m. and descended to bivy No. 1. We continued our descent to the base camp the following day in bad weather. The weather was (except for the last day) perfect."
Luka Stražar

  • K7, Dreamers of Golden Caves
    K7, Dreamers of Golden Caves
    archives of the expedition Charakusa 2011
  • Climbing Dreamers of Golden Caves
    Climbing Dreamers of Golden Caves
    archives of the expedition Charakusa 2011
  • Climbing Dreamers of Golden Caves
    Climbing Dreamers of Golden Caves
    archives of the expedition Charakusa 2011
  • Climbing Dreamers of Golden Caves
    Climbing Dreamers of Golden Caves
    archives of the expedition Charakusa 2011
  • Stražar andMarčič, summit of K7
    Stražar andMarčič, summit of K7
    archives of the expedition Charakusa 2011

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Mountain Facts

K7 West, Charakusa Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan , Pakistan

N 35° 28′ 25.4712″ W 76° 34′ 0.21″

Elevation: 6615m

K7 West on the map

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