K7 West - The Dreamers of golden caves - 2011
Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič, from Slovenia, have climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan.
K7 West ( 6615m )
First ascent of The Dreamers of golden caves
1600m, VI/5, M5, A2
9 September 2011
Climbed by Luka Stražar, Nejc Marčič
Other members of the expedition: Urban Novak, David Debeljak
Joint winner of the Piolets d'Or 2012
Luka Stražar and Nejc Marčič, from Slovenia, have climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The route e was climbed in alpine st.yle and took 4 days. It is second route to reach the summit of K7 West, and the third ascent overall of the peak.
"We climbed the route in 4 days. The lower part was manly ice and upper part was manly rocky passes and mixed climbing. We tried to climb on the ridge as much as possible because of the presence of overhanging seracs. We started from the base at 3 a.m., which was followed by 2 hours approach over scree, followed by climbing snow and ice until the first bivy on the ridge at 7:30 p.m. The next day was technically most demanding and consisted mainly from mixed climbing. It was harder than we'd expected. On this day we only climbed 250 m and set up our bivy on the ridge. The next day we figured that continuing the planned path with our gear would not be possible in the given situation so we passed around the rocky upper part to the right of the ridge and continued under the seracs. We topped out at 9 a.m. and descended to bivy No. 1. We continued our descent to the base camp the following day in bad weather. The weather was (except for the last day) perfect."
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More about this ascent
K7 West, Charakusa Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan , Pakistan
N 35° 28′ 25.4712″ W 76° 34′ 0.21″