Great Trango - Normal Route - 1977

Great Trango Tower, in Pakistan's Karakoram mountains, was climbed for the first time in 1977

First ascent of Great Trango ( 6286m )

Normal Route

Karakoram, Pakistan

21 July 1977

Climbed by Dennis Hennek, James Morrissey, Galen Rowell, Roskelley, Kim Schmitz

Other members of the expedition: Lucian Buscaglia

Great Trango (sometimes called Great Trango Tower) was climbed for the first time in 1977 by US climbers Dennis Hennek, James  Morrissey, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley and Kim Schmitz.

They left base camp on 19 July and reached the summit on 21 July.

Their route took them from the Trango Glacier, to the west of the mountain, onto its south face via an avalanche-prone gully. They then climbed  a headwall of "beautiful orange granite, with ice and snow plastered on the rock," involving sections of both free (up to grade 5.9) and aid climbing. Snow and ice gullies brought them to a bivouac at the base of the final tower. On 21 July they followed the ridge up the tower, turning gendarmes by traverses and chimneys ("some of the best climbing on the entire route", according to Dennis Hennek). They reached the main summit of Great Trango at 4pm.

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Great Trango in the Ascent Book

Other climbs on Great Trango in the Himalayan Climbs mountaineering database

Mountain Facts

Great Trango, Pakistan

N 35° 45′ 27.8172″ W 76° 12′ 3.1356″

Elevation: 6286m

Great Trango on the map

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