Gasherbrum II - Southwest Ridge - 1956

Gasherbrum II was climbed for the first time in 1956, by Austrians Fritz Moravec, Joseph Larch and Hans Willenpart

First ascent of Gasherbrum II ( 8035m )

Southwest Ridge

Karakoram, Pakistan

7 July 1956

Climbed by Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, Hans Willenpart

Other members of the expedition: Hans Ratay, Richard Reinagl, Heinrich Roiss, Dr. G. Weiler, Dr. E. Gattinger

Gasherbrum II was climbed for the first time in 1956, by Austrians Fritz Moravec, Joseph Larch and Hans Willenpart. No supplementary oxygen was used.

Gasherbrum II is the thirteenth highest mountain the world, and was the tenth of he world's 8000m peaks to be climbed.

The expedition established 2 camps on the  glaciated southwest ridge, but progress was delayed by a spell of bad weather.

A team then  climbed with porters from Camp 2 to the  intended site of  Camp 3 at about 7150m. The route from here to the intended site of Camp IV, at the base of the summit pyramid, was impracticable for porters unless prepared with fixed ropes. Fearing that the improved weather would not last long enough to allow this, the team decided on a lightning ascent instead.

Moravec, Larch and Willenpart therefore continued upwards, without pausing for the night at the newly-established Camp 3. They bivouaced beneath the summit pyramid at about 7500m, spending the night in sleeping bags and a bivouac sack. The following morning they continued under the southeast face of the summit pyramid to gain the east ridge, which they followed to the summit. They descended safely, stopping for the night at Camp 3 on the way down.

Gasherbrum II in the Ascent Book

Other climbs on Gasherbrum II in the Himalayan Climbs mountaineering database

Mountain Facts

Gasherbrum II, Gilgit-Baltistan , Pakistan

N 35° 45′ 28.3176″ W 76° 39′ 10.5912″

Elevation: 8035m

Gasherbrum II on the map

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