Gandharva Chuli - southwest face / west ridge - 2013
Gandharva Chuli, a previously unclimbed peak near Annapurna in the Nepal Himalya, has been climbed by Romanians Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean. They avoided standing on the summit out of respect for local beliefs.
Gandharva Chuli ( 6248m )
First ascent of southwest face / west ridge
Route completed without continuing to the summit
6 May 2013
Climbed by Cosmin Andron, Cristina Pogacean
Other members of the expedition: Purna Tamang, Hasta Magar, Sohit Ghale, Sukram Tamang, Dawa Tamang, Ram Shresta, Wanchu Sherpa, Lok Bahadur Gurung
Romanian climbers Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean have made the first ascent of Gandharva Chuli in Nepal's Annapurna Himal. They stopped just short of the summit out of respect for the religious significance of the peak
Gandharva Chuli stands on the east rim of the Annapurna Sanctuary, between Annapurna III and Macchapuchhare.
The Romanian route takes mixed ground up the southwest face to the southwest spur and then the west ridge.
Macchapuchhare is forbidden to climbers because of its religious significance, but Gandharva Chuli is open to climbing expeditions that include Nepali members. However, the Romanians discovered that the peak is strongly associated with Macchapuchhare and that local people were uncomfortable about the ascent.
From a base camp beside the Modi Khola, Andron and Pogacean established an advance base at 4448m with the help of Nepali members of the team. They then climbed the route with two bivouacs. A storm developed during the first afternoon and snow continued to fall during the night and the following morning, forcing the climbers to spend a day at their second bivouac site waiting for conditions to improve. Progress on the final section of the climb was slowed by wind and spindrift.
The climbers reached a point close to the summit on 6 May. They report that they were "one body-length" below the top, and that their GPS recorded 6302m.
They then descended by their route of ascent, with one further bivouac.
The climbers felt unable to allocated a grade to their route, but Andron likened it to the "Swiss Route on Les Courtes combined with the Cosmiques Arete on Aiguille du Midi (have them stacked and expanded a bit)."
There were no "official" attempts on Gandharva Chuli prior to the Romanian ascent.
© Himalaya Masala 2013. All rights reserved.
More about this ascent
Gandharva Chuli, Annapurna Himal, Nepal
N 28° 32′ 18.1176″ W 83° 57′ 35.9208″