Everest - southeast ridge - 2012

Swiss climber Ueli Steck and Nepali climber Tenji reached the summit of Everest without using supplementary oxygen

Everest ( 8848m ) via southeast ridge

Himalaya, Nepal

18 May 2012

Climbed by Ueli Steck, Tenji

Swiss climber Ueli Steck and Nepali climber Tenji reached the summit of Everest without using supplementary oxygen. They made the ascent via the South Col and South-East Ridge. Steck had attempted Everest via the North Col the previous year, but had turned back close to the summit because he felt he was at risk of losing his toes due to the cold and the altitude.

Steck writes:

This mountain is from the commercial point of view literally butchered. A great business has developed over in the last year. This business is done mainly for those clients, who try to summit Everest on prepared fixed routes with oxygen. Without oxygen up to today 142 ascents are officially registered. This is a small percentage considering that nearly 6000 ascent have been done so far.

Steck and Tenji made their ascent on 18 May while Sherpas from the various commercial expeditions on the mountain were at work fixing ropes for their clients, who were to follow later. In this way the pair avoided the crowds.

By the time they returned fromthe summit, the camp on the South Col had turned into a village. 150 climbers set out for the summit the next night. On 19 May, four climbers died from altitude-related causes while descending the south-east ridge. The deaths appear to be attributable, at least in part, to overcrowding on the mountain and bottlenecks that led climbers to spend too long at high altitude.

More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Everest in the Ascent Book

Other climbs on Everest in the Himalayan Climbs mountaineering database

Mountain Facts

Everest, khumbu, Nepal

N 27° 59′ 17.88″ W 86° 55′ 31.0332″

Elevation: 8848m

Everest on the map

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