Everest - southeast ridge - 2012
Kenton Cool, cameraman Keith Partridge and Dorje, a Sherpa from Khumbu, reached the summit of Everest on 25 May. carrying one of the Olympic medals issued in 1924 to all the members the British expedition that attempted Everest in 1922
Everest ( 8848m ) via southeast ridge
25 May 2012
Climbed by Kenton Cool, Dorje, Keith Partridge
British climber Kenton Cool, cameraman Keith Partridge and Dorje, a Sherpa from Khumbu, reached the summit of Everest on 25 May. Kenton Cool was carrying one of the Olympic medals issued in 1924 to all the members of the British expedition that had attempted Everest in 1922.
The 2012 ascent was intended to fulfil the pledge made 90 years ago by Lt Col Strutt, who, on receiving the medals on behalf of the 1922 team, swore to take one to the top of Everest.
Kenton Cool, Keith Partridge and Dorje reached the summit a couple of months in advance of the opening ceremony of the London Olympics, and just one day short of the 90th anniversary of the day that George Ingle Finch, Geoffrey Bruce and Tejbir Bura set an altitude record of 27,300ft (8230 m) on Everest.
The expedition was fully supported by The Royal Geographical Society, The Alpine Club, The British Mountaineering Council and the Himalayan Club, and also had the support of some of the descendants of the climbers awarded the medals in 1924. It was sponsored by Samsung Electronics, the Worldwide Olympic Partner in the wireless communications equipment category. Reportage created using Samsung technology was widely circulated and heavily promoted.
This was the tenth occasion on which Kenton Cool has reached the summit of Everest, and was the ninth summit visit for Dorje. It was also the fifth time that the two climbers have summited Everest together. Fixed ropes and supplementary oxygen were used on the ascent.
Numerous climbers from other expeditions reached the summit on the same day.
A few days earlier, on 19 May, four climbers had died from altitude-related causes while descending the south-east ridge. The deaths appear to be attributable, at least in part, to overcrowding on the mountain and bottlenecks that led climbers to spend too long at high altitude.
On 24 May, Simone Moro had abandoned his attempt to climb Everest and then Lhotse without supplementary oxygen due to the crowds on the mountain.
"Everest for all these people is a jewel which they want to purchase and conquest. For them it's an emblem, a joining an exclusive club of the "brave". I can partially understand them, from being nobody they suddenly become someone at home or in their own country. I see them squeezing out every last ounce of energy and die for this mountain. All of this makes no sense to me but must make lots of sense to them."
The climbers who died on the south-east ridge on 19-20 May were: Shriya Shah (Canada), Eberhard Schaaf (Germany), Song Won-bin (South Korea) and Ha Wenyi (China).
A study of mortality on Everest published by the British Medical Journal shows that, amongst people ascending above base camp in the period 1921-2006, the mortality rate was 1.3%. Amongst people descending from the summit, the mortality rate was 2.5%.
© Himalaya Masala 2013. All rights reserved.
More about this ascent
Everest in the Ascent Book
First ascent via Park’s Korean Route
First ascent via North Face Direct
First ascent via Northeast ridge integral
First ascent of Everest
Everest, khumbu, Nepal
N 27° 59′ 17.88″ W 86° 55′ 31.0332″