Dunglung Khangri - 2012 route - 2012
Simon Yearsley, Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg have made the first ascent of an unamed 6365m peak in the Indian Karakoram, Ladakh
First ascent of Dunglung Khangri ( 6365m )
Climbed by Malcolm Bass, Paul Figg, Simon Yearsley
Other members of the expedition: Satyabrata Dam, Tashi Phunchok, Konchok Thinless
Simon Yearsley, Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg have made the first ascent of an unamed 6365m peak above North Terong glacier in the Indian Karakoram, Ladakh. They climbed the peak after poor conditions forced the to abandon an attempt on the southwest face of Rimo III (7,233 m), the original objective of their Indo-British Expedition led by Satyabrata Dam.
"Initially the climbing was on a series of spurs separated by snow/ice couloirs, then a fine gendarmed ridge, and finally a steeper summit pyramid. By the time we reached the base of the summit pyramid the wind was howling and the snowfall was constant. Part way up the summit pyramid the issue hung in the balance, but we gritted our teeth and pressed on in by now "full Scottish" conditions. We reached the summit in a white out. A long cold night time descent followed as we searched for our elusive bivouac site."
Following discussion with the Ladakhi members of the expedition, ashi Phunchok and Konchok Thinless, they have proposed the name Dunglung Khangri (Ladakhi for swharp windy peak) for the mountain.
© Himalaya Masala 2013. All rights reserved.
More about this ascent
Dunglung Khangri, Jammu and Kashmir , India
N 35° 19′ 39.9576″ W 77° 20′ 11.8536″