Chogolisa I - south west ridge from the Vigne Glacier - 2011

David Lama and Peter Ortner climbed 7665m Chogolisa I in Pakistan's Karakoram mountains, seeing it as a way to find how their bodies react to altitude..

Chogolisa I ( 7665m ) via south west ridge from the Vigne Glacier

Karakoram, Pakistan

September 2011

Climbed by David Lama, Peter Ortner

David Lama and Peter Ortner  climbed Chogolisa I shortly after their ascent of Eternal Flame on Trango Tower. They approached via the Vigne Glacier and then reached the summit via the south-west ridge - the route by which the mountain was first climbed in 1975 (the lower north-east summit of Chogolisa was climbed in 1958).

Technical difficulties on the route are low, but the mountain has nevertheless not had many ascents.

David Lama later told Climb magazine:

Chogolisa was kind of an unusual goal for both Peter and I, since there is only very little climbing involved as we perceive it. It was our main intention to see how our bodies react in this altitude. It was an interesting experience and quite a bit of torture. On a snow mountain like Chogolisa you aren’t shut down by a difficult section or something like that, it’s the pure will that makes you go further step by step. And I can tell you, every step is painful up there. I kept on asking myself why I was even up there, until we had finally reached the summit ridge. The experiences Peter and I were able to collect are extremely valuable as we’ve got some major projects planned in high altitude. Logically not just for the sake of pushing ourselves to higher altitude, but to find the world's highest and most extreme walls for climbing.

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More about this ascent

External references for this climb.

Mountain Facts

Chogolisa I, Concordia, Gilgit-Baltistan , Pakistan

N 35° 36′ 48.0564″ W 76° 34′ 28.02″

Elevation: 7665m

Chogolisa I on the map

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