Cho Oyu - Nil - 2011
Jordi Tosas from Spain, climbing solo, in 2011 made the first ascent of a new route on the northwest face of Point 7570, Cho Oyu.
Cho Oyu ( 8201m )
First ascent of Nil
Route completed without continuing to the summit
Climbed by Jordi Tosas
Jordi Tosas from Spain, climbing solo, has made the first ascent of a new route on the northwest face of Point 7570, Cho Oyu. He squeezed the ascent into an attempt to guide clients up the normal route on Cho Oyu.
Tosas climbed with his clients to Camp 1 (6,400m), where they spent the night with a Sherpa. He left the camp in the evening, climbed over the serac and onto the plateau above, and traversed under a large serac barrier to reach the face. He then climbed the mixed face toward its right side to reach Point 7570, encountering 55° snow and UIAA III rock. Tosas named the route "Nil." after his son
From Point 7570 he traversed east to Camp 2 on the Normal Route. He had planned to continue up the normal route from there with his clients, but they were unable to reach summit.
Back at basecamp, Tosas heard that José Luis Quintana was at his Camp 2 (7,000m), unable to move after an unsuccessful summit attempt. He tried to assemble a rescue team of Sherpas and climbers, but found that others weren't prepared to assist. He then attempted to reach the camp with two Sherpas but was driven back by a snow storm. On a subsequent attempt, alone, he reached the camp at 10:30pm. Quintana was unable to walk without assistance. Tosas got him down to Camp 1 at 5am the next morning, and from there brought him to base camp with the help of Tibetan porters.
Jorge Tosas suffered frostbite during the rescue and required hospital treatment. He commented in the American Alpine Journal:
Climbing on 8,000m peaks is difficult to understand. Not the mountains but the people now attempting them. For me mountains have important human values, which it seems people have forgotten.
© Himalaya Masala 2013. All rights reserved.
More about this ascent
Cho Oyu in the Ascent Book
First ascent of Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu, Khumbu, Mahalangur Himalaya, Xizang (Tibet) , China
N 28° 5′ 38.7312″ W 86° 39′ 39.0348″