Cerro Kishtwar - Yoniverse - 2011
David Lama, Denis Burdet, Stephan Siegrist and Robert Frost have climbed a new route on Cerro Kishtwar, in the Indian Himalaya
Cerro Kishtwar ( 6155m )
First ascent of Yoniverse
29 September 2011
Climbed by David Lama, Denis Burdet, Stephan Siegrist, Robert Frost
Other members of the expedition: Stefan Schlumpf
David Lama, Denis Burdet, Stephan Siegrist and Robert Frost have climbed a new route on Cerro Kishtwar, in the Indian Himalaya. They were accompanied to their Advanced Base Camp by photographer/film-maker Stefan Schlumpf.
This is the second ascent of the mountain, first climbed in 1993 by Mick Fowler and Stephen Sustad. Access restrictions imposed because of unrest in Kashmir have hampered development of the mountain over the intervening years.
The 2011 expedition initially attempted a line on the north face of the mountain, but the climbers felt that the equipment they were carrying was slowing them down too much. They then reduced their baggage and transferred their attention to a hidden diagonal line of ice couloirs on the north-west face, finishing up the south ridge.
The route proved to be composed of soft ice that allowed fast climbing but offered limited protection. Ice climbing at up to 85º followed by grade VI rock brought them to the South East Summit of the mountain. They GPS gave it an altitude of 6155m, contrasting with the map altitude of 6200. They then traversed to the North West Summit, which they found to be 5m lower.
The climb was accomplished alpine-style and no bolts were used.
The climbers descended by abseiling down the face.
Denis Burdet and Stephan Siegrist then made the first ascent of an unnamed peak to the south of Cerro Kishtwar. They dubbed the peak "White Saphire" and called their route "La Virée des Contemporains"
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More about this ascent
Cerro Kishtwar, Kishtwar, Jammu and Kashmir , India
N 33° 20′ 53.4048″ W 76° 34′ 34.5072″