Bhagirathi III - Kirkus-Warren Route - 1933
The first ascent of Bhagirati III, in the Gangotri area of the Indian Himalaya, was accomplished in June 1933 by Colin Kirkus and Charles Warren
First ascent of Bhagirathi III ( 6454m )
18 June 1933
Climbed by Colin Kirkus, Charles Warren
Other members of the expedition: Marco Pallis, F. E. Hicks, R. C. Nicholson
British climbers Colin Kirkus and Charles Warren made the first ascent of Bhagirathi III, near the Gangotri Glacier in the Indian Himalaya, in the course of an exploratory expedition led by Marco Pallis.
Their route led up the southwest flanks of the mountain and onto its southeast ridge (out of sight in the photograph, which shows the mountain's west face).
Starting from an advanced base camp on the Gangotri Glacier, their second bivouac placed them beneath the final peak. Difficult and loose climbing brought them to a third bivouac on a small snow patch beneath steep cliffs. On the following day they continued up steep and loose rock, hampered by new snow that had fallen overnight. They reached the summit at about 1pm. The descent, in continuing poor weather, required another bivouac.
The Bhagirathi peaks were incorrectly identified by the Pallis expedition as part of the Satopanth group. Accordingly, the mountain climbed by Kirkus and Warren was referred to as Central Satopanth. The sketch map and photographs from the expedition make it clear that it was in fact Bhagirathi III.
The ascent was carried out in "alpine-style" - though the term wasn't then in use - with no fixed camps or support above advanced base.
The climb - and much else besides - is described in Marco Pallis' classic book Peaks and Lamas.
© Himalaya Masala 2013. All rights reserved.
More about this ascent
Bhagirathi III in the Ascent Book
First ascent via The Seed of Madness
Bhagirathi III, India
N 30° 52′ 2.8452″ W 79° 8′ 7.9836″